WTF is Zizkov?

I think this is a great day to thoroughly describe Zizkov. This is a pretty typical “day in the neighborhood” for me, and it is a very, very, dynamic neighborhood, which I will further explain.

First stop: JzP farmers market:After class, I headed therewith Nicole and her friend Joanna, as my typical Wednesday/Friday farmers market was having a special Strawberry festival today(with a FREE CHOCOLATE FOUNTAIN! Don’t have to ask me twice). Nicole opted for delicious homemade pesto, while I went for the real deal, selecting the juiciest crate of Cesky Jahody I could find. Instead of fighting the crowds of young people at this fountain, like the true American I am I unashamedly stuck my entire box of strawberries under the fountain. They laughed, Nicole applauded, and we headed on our way to the TV tower.I like the fact that I can embrace the stupid American role in my neighborhood because I am one of few(if any) rather than part of the obnoxious crowd constituting the majority. It is a quirk that I do not have to hide rather than an annoying stereotype I am trying to fight. And for that reason alone, I am happy that ISA has us living outside of Prague 1

Next Zizkov stop: TV Tower. If you have never heard of David Cerny, you should look him up immediately. He is responsible for all of the weird artwork that, in my opinion, really adds an extra level of spunk to Prague. One of his exhibits rests on the giant TV Tower that overlooks the entire city. It is ugly as can be, but making it even more ridiculous are the giant statues of babies climbing all over it (resembling the attachment our generation has to technology). As odd as it is, everything he does has very specific intent and definitely has shock value, which is totally my type of art. Right next to this is another famous landmark, the Old Jewish Cemetry.

However, my favorite part about Zizkov is not the tower, or the cemetery, or the other landmarks such as the statue in Vitkov park or even the Riegrody Savy beer garden(ok…that one is high up on the list though) but rather what I discovered later this day.

As I meandered my way back to my apartment, up and down the steep streets that make SF look flat, I came across a million and one little cafés and bars to pop into. While it has the highest bars per square foot ratio in all of Europe (I wonder if it beats Milwaukee, if any extended relative wants to get back to me on that please do haha) there is something special about the area that is less about being drunk and more about a great balance of community and individualism. Zizkov has a rugged look, and the people match the vibe. You see many people with tattoos, interesting clothing and there is an extra umph of the graffiti that is characteristic of Prague. At the same time, there is a sense of tranquility and neighborliness, people like to be outside, they like to drink and chat together. I am so excited to CZECH out all of these cafes and as I have more information I will go into more detail! 

Next: Vitkov running trail- Coming home, I headed out for a run on the trail along our house. The first week, I found a wonderfully FLAT running path that started at the corner of our block and runs about 1.5-2 miles along the railroad tracks and through Vitkov park. There is genuinely no part of Prague outside of Old Town that I have discovered that is flat. It is perfectly shaded within the trees, but still has a great view of the city – mostly a part of the city you wont find in postcards. With the park on one side and downtown Zizkov on the other, they slightly blend together on the path. The back porch of a hostel is the first time this happens, followed by an ornate deck for the famous pub, U Vystrelenyjo Oka, and other various cafes and outdoor patio drinking areas that accompany the restaurants on the street below. So far, I am the only recognizable American on this path, the only exception being those sitting on the hostel deck. This path is the best hidden secret! This also is a great view into the Czech culture that you do not see in the tourist part of town. You get a very clear picture of Czech culture, including the rollerblading craze, the working-out-in-regular-clothes phenomenon, and the funny expressions from the stoic Czechs when you give them a smile as you pass by. I am sure as I spend more time running this trail I will add more to the list, but so far I am enjoying my people watching workout!

Last but not least: Secret of Raw Later that night, I stopped next door at Secret of Raw to finally try the Raw pizza! Sitting at my favorite table outside, overlooking the railroad station with Prague Castle in the distance, and eating delicious food, I was very, very, happy. This is one aspect of Zizkov that I love. There is an outdoorsy, healthy, “Portlandia” feel to match the ruggedness of the young, rebellious, neighborhood. People take advantage of the park, they gather at a raw restaurant to hang out with friends and eat, and there are generally more “my type” of people hanging around than I think I would find in some other parts of Prague. Lesson of the day: Talk to people! Through my times at SOR, (might be their best customer at this point…)I have met many servers and customers. This is a place where conversation is acceptable across tables, as people chime in to each others conversations and mingle with one another. I don’t know exactly why that is, if it is just a friendly group or if it is because of the large amount of people eating while writing or doing other sort of solo work. This night, I met Lukas, who I bonded with over the fact that 2/3 places he visited in the US were DC and Nashville.  It is nice to know a Czech person who will give me Kombucha to go when it is not on the menu and wave every time I walk to and from my tram stop, as well as give me advice on all things Prague related! While I would be no means call knowing Lukas, Mikail the bartender on the other side of us, or any other Czechs we have met “friends”, its nice to feel more blended into the neighborhood through knowing a name and a face.

Overall, I truly do not think I could have found a more “me” neighborhood. With a local bar, healthy restaurant, and running path, a strong community and a sense of attitude, as well as walking distance from the main area, I really couldn’t be happier.