Intentionally Lost

Our one free Friday! Waiting for Julie to wake up, I headed to the farmers market for a THIRD DAY IN A ROW to look for a stand I saw my first day in Prague (it was a Friday, so maybe they are only there once a week, idk). Too bad that it was Slovenia day in a rotating international market series. Ugh…Still, it was cool to see! I then met Julie at Secret of Raw - yup I live there now, sorry Grins -for lunch and we planned the rest of our day in Mala Strana, which is the part of Old Town on the other side of the river near the Castle. Lesson of the day: There are positives to veering from the plan. Skipping out on the places we had originally planned to go, we instead made our way to the area of town we wanted to be and decided to just look around and see what Mala Strana had to offer. We found a wonderful street nearby that had a BEAUTIFUL hotel, one of the prettiest I had ever seen, and took time to look around at the architecture and decorating.

A hidden garden cafe
in Mala Strana

Heading down the hill, we found a small café run by an old Czech woman who must have converted the first floor of her house for the public. With a pink, white, and black color scheme, a small garden, flowers everywhere, and the smell of chorcolate croissants, this is definitely somewhere I will be returning. Continuing our path, we found a truly Czech liquor bar, boasting hundreds of types in a dark room with large furs covering wooden benches and tables that felt like it was out of a time mach

ine. Lastly, we stopped in a South African wine bar with interesting décor where we chatted with a bartender about the area and swore we would come back again! I definitely want to come back and try at least one of these places, but it was nice to find some hidden gems in a different area of Prague!

Old school bar @ The Aquarius

One interesting thing that stuck out to me today was how much I love discovering new places and finding situations that match them. To have a certain mood, type of food, entertainment event, or the like and then have an idea for the PERFECT place to go literally gives me butterflies. I have turned into such a little planning nerd! Still, there is something about discovering these hidden gems in Prague that has completely made my experience. I am starting to realize that this is probably one of the things I enjoy most in life, and it would be awesome if “Tour Guide of the World” was a real career. However, it is something to keep in mind that above all things, I am the happiest when I am finding unique spaces and then telling others about them. I cannot WAIT to make a full list of all of the things I have found abroad.

The oddity that is Luka Lu

That night, I headed back to Mala Strana (and a little past it) to meet Nicole and Amanda for dinner at Maly Buddah. We had some great Asian food and tea which was perfect for the rather cool night. Heading down the hill in search of dessert, I found myself in the same area I had been with Julie! It is odd to see things in pieces and have them slowly come together, but it is nice to know I am getting a better feel for the city as a whole. Strolling down Ujzed, we stopped in Luka Lu because of the oddest decorations I have ever seen. This restaurant honestly looks like someone put glue on everything in a garage sale and then a tornado came through. Only pictures can describe. Here, I learned that I do not like Panecotta and that this part of town is pretty freakin cool. I am happy to have another area of Prague I am excited to CZECH out (Really still not that sorry about continuing that) 

WTF is Zizkov?

I think this is a great day to thoroughly describe Zizkov. This is a pretty typical “day in the neighborhood” for me, and it is a very, very, dynamic neighborhood, which I will further explain.

First stop: JzP farmers market:After class, I headed therewith Nicole and her friend Joanna, as my typical Wednesday/Friday farmers market was having a special Strawberry festival today(with a FREE CHOCOLATE FOUNTAIN! Don’t have to ask me twice). Nicole opted for delicious homemade pesto, while I went for the real deal, selecting the juiciest crate of Cesky Jahody I could find. Instead of fighting the crowds of young people at this fountain, like the true American I am I unashamedly stuck my entire box of strawberries under the fountain. They laughed, Nicole applauded, and we headed on our way to the TV tower.I like the fact that I can embrace the stupid American role in my neighborhood because I am one of few(if any) rather than part of the obnoxious crowd constituting the majority. It is a quirk that I do not have to hide rather than an annoying stereotype I am trying to fight. And for that reason alone, I am happy that ISA has us living outside of Prague 1

Next Zizkov stop: TV Tower. If you have never heard of David Cerny, you should look him up immediately. He is responsible for all of the weird artwork that, in my opinion, really adds an extra level of spunk to Prague. One of his exhibits rests on the giant TV Tower that overlooks the entire city. It is ugly as can be, but making it even more ridiculous are the giant statues of babies climbing all over it (resembling the attachment our generation has to technology). As odd as it is, everything he does has very specific intent and definitely has shock value, which is totally my type of art. Right next to this is another famous landmark, the Old Jewish Cemetry.

However, my favorite part about Zizkov is not the tower, or the cemetery, or the other landmarks such as the statue in Vitkov park or even the Riegrody Savy beer garden(ok…that one is high up on the list though) but rather what I discovered later this day.

As I meandered my way back to my apartment, up and down the steep streets that make SF look flat, I came across a million and one little cafés and bars to pop into. While it has the highest bars per square foot ratio in all of Europe (I wonder if it beats Milwaukee, if any extended relative wants to get back to me on that please do haha) there is something special about the area that is less about being drunk and more about a great balance of community and individualism. Zizkov has a rugged look, and the people match the vibe. You see many people with tattoos, interesting clothing and there is an extra umph of the graffiti that is characteristic of Prague. At the same time, there is a sense of tranquility and neighborliness, people like to be outside, they like to drink and chat together. I am so excited to CZECH out all of these cafes and as I have more information I will go into more detail! 

Next: Vitkov running trail- Coming home, I headed out for a run on the trail along our house. The first week, I found a wonderfully FLAT running path that started at the corner of our block and runs about 1.5-2 miles along the railroad tracks and through Vitkov park. There is genuinely no part of Prague outside of Old Town that I have discovered that is flat. It is perfectly shaded within the trees, but still has a great view of the city – mostly a part of the city you wont find in postcards. With the park on one side and downtown Zizkov on the other, they slightly blend together on the path. The back porch of a hostel is the first time this happens, followed by an ornate deck for the famous pub, U Vystrelenyjo Oka, and other various cafes and outdoor patio drinking areas that accompany the restaurants on the street below. So far, I am the only recognizable American on this path, the only exception being those sitting on the hostel deck. This path is the best hidden secret! This also is a great view into the Czech culture that you do not see in the tourist part of town. You get a very clear picture of Czech culture, including the rollerblading craze, the working-out-in-regular-clothes phenomenon, and the funny expressions from the stoic Czechs when you give them a smile as you pass by. I am sure as I spend more time running this trail I will add more to the list, but so far I am enjoying my people watching workout!

Last but not least: Secret of Raw Later that night, I stopped next door at Secret of Raw to finally try the Raw pizza! Sitting at my favorite table outside, overlooking the railroad station with Prague Castle in the distance, and eating delicious food, I was very, very, happy. This is one aspect of Zizkov that I love. There is an outdoorsy, healthy, “Portlandia” feel to match the ruggedness of the young, rebellious, neighborhood. People take advantage of the park, they gather at a raw restaurant to hang out with friends and eat, and there are generally more “my type” of people hanging around than I think I would find in some other parts of Prague. Lesson of the day: Talk to people! Through my times at SOR, (might be their best customer at this point…)I have met many servers and customers. This is a place where conversation is acceptable across tables, as people chime in to each others conversations and mingle with one another. I don’t know exactly why that is, if it is just a friendly group or if it is because of the large amount of people eating while writing or doing other sort of solo work. This night, I met Lukas, who I bonded with over the fact that 2/3 places he visited in the US were DC and Nashville.  It is nice to know a Czech person who will give me Kombucha to go when it is not on the menu and wave every time I walk to and from my tram stop, as well as give me advice on all things Prague related! While I would be no means call knowing Lukas, Mikail the bartender on the other side of us, or any other Czechs we have met “friends”, its nice to feel more blended into the neighborhood through knowing a name and a face.

Overall, I truly do not think I could have found a more “me” neighborhood. With a local bar, healthy restaurant, and running path, a strong community and a sense of attitude, as well as walking distance from the main area, I really couldn’t be happier.

A Day with a View

Wednesday is free day! (And tourist day!) I woke up and immediately headed to the JzP Farmers market, which I have been waiting to return to since I discovered it my first day in Prague. Sadly, my favorite stand from before was not there, but I was still able to try other delicious homemade and homegrown options! My favorite was a Czech dessert called Fragle. It is essentially a dessert pizza, with doughy bread, homemade jam, and what they call “cottage cheese” sprinkled on top, which is more like a type of sugar crumble. While my annoyingly sensitive stomach became upset after a few bites, it was definitely worth it. One of the main things I noticed while I was there, and wandering around the surrounding area, was the lack of English or tourists. I love the fact that ISA houses their students in truly Czech neighborhoods, particularly young and cool ones, and I loved being able to discover Zizkov and Prague 2 a little more, czeching out (wont get old, sorry bout it) menus in Czech or interesting shops. Life lesson abroad: Go places where you aren’t worried about pickpocketing. While this might seem like an odd way of phrasing it, it was nice to be able to walk around and realize that people are not preying on my as a tourist, but actually assuming I am a local – until I open my mouth that is. While I have never been one to shy into the background, it is really nice to be on my own as the observer, and I never saw that appeal before this trip.

I came back to find my roommates ready to head to Petrin, the giant park that overlooks all of Prague. We first stopped in Old Town to pick up some salads from the Country Life buffet, and then headed to Petrin, up the tram to the top to enjoy our lunch. From there, we climbed the Eiffel tower knock off and were able to see a beautiful view of the entire city. Today we also started the game of “guess the tourists country” which involves everyone picking where a group of tourists might be from, and then playing what are the odds to have someone ask them where. So far, we have not guessed right but it has made us random acquaintances along the way!

I headed back to Fittop Zizkov, still crying over the runners in converse, and then we went to meet Claire and Olivia at the clock tower. Life lesson abroad: (Two for the few days where nothing but visitors happened) As a student studying abroad, plan your tourist activities strategically – there is plenty of time! We decided that the view of Old Town would be best around 8 pm, right before sunset, where all of Prague turns the rosey color that everyone talks about. It could not have been more perfect, and after a day of great views I have to say 

that I am still falling in loveeeee with Prague every day. I feel like I am at Disneyworld. Mostly because Old Town square was most likely the basis for the village in Disney world, but that’s its own topic.  Claire, Olivia, Julie and I headed for a glass of wine at Sahara, the cool middle eastern inspired bar and restaurant in Namesti Miru. A good glass of Moravian wine, good friends, and sitting on pillows in a windowsill with Namesti Miru directly behind me, it really can’t get much better. 

 

Last thing, Bri left the water running with lots of dish soap in the sink and this was maybe the funniest thing to happen to Seifertova 5. 

Palaces and Palak

Our school!

Class class class class class. Soooooooo much class. In Art and Architecture we headed to the Royal Gardens to see the summer palace, which was not only beautiful but had a great view of the castle. (Did you know that it was created essentially to “instigate” having children, of which the queen had 15?) We also stopped at Prague Castle for the first part of a two-day tour.  

Afterwards, I headed to my new gym, Fittop. I assume that I am the first American to ever belong to this Zizkov gym. Maybe one of five in history, if I am being really generous. However, when you go to the gym you typically do not talk to strangers. At all my time at Lifetime I never speak, you just workout and go home. But the inability to communicate, and the pressure I felt to fit in, made me hyper aware of my silence. At the same time, it was great to think that I probably did blend right in with the otherwise Czech crowd. The one cultural difference that killed me was seeing all of the people running in converse. As a runner, that is just heartbreaking. You are killing your feet!!!  That night, I met Claire and Olivia for some AWESOME Indian food at Masala. Also, I am finally figuring out the public transport system! Lesson of the day:Make the extra effort to thoroughly understand the tram/metro/bus system  I found my way all the way to the end of Prague 2, realized that location was closed, and headed all the way back to the newer location and home with very little walking and lots of transfers. The Prague tram and bus system is super complicated, but once figured out, can be much quicker for short distance travel. Our dinner was great and definitely reminded me of home J I had some of the best Palak Chicken I had ever tasted and a very relaxing night with friends!